How to make a recycled plastic watch

Make a recycled plastic watch you can actually wear.

A complete build guide for injection moulding a watch case from recycled polypropylene using the Sustainable Design Studio Watch Mould, plus an Injection Mini V2 or Arbour Injection Machine V2.

Recycled plastic can become more than coasters and keyrings. This guide walks you through moulding a fully functional wristwatch case from waste polypropylene, fitting it with a mechanical NH35 movement, and assembling a finished watch you can wear. The whole build is achievable in a small workshop with basic tools.

A finished recycled plastic watch built using the Sustainable Design Studio Watch Mould and an NH35 movement.
Recycled polypropylene case, NH35 movement, domed glass crystal, Velcro strap.
Before you start

What you need

All the kit, materials, and components for the full build. The watch components are standard parts you can source from any watch parts supplier, they do not need to be Sustainable Design Studio specific.

Recycled plastic

Clean, high-quality recycled polypropylene (PP). Good sources include:

  • Fishing nets
  • DVD cases
  • Food containers, cleaned and label-free
  • Bottle caps, PP only (check the recycling symbol)

The plastic must be clean, dry, and free of contamination. Mixed or dirty material will produce weak, inconsistent parts. If you are unsure how to identify PP, see the Plastic Identification guide.

Watch components

All standard parts, available from any watch parts supplier. They do not need to be specific to Sustainable Design Studio.

Component Specification Notes
Watch movement NH35 automatic Standard Japanese movement, widely available.
Watch dial 28.5 mm Must be compatible with NH35.
Watch hands NH35 compatible set Hour, minute, second hands.
Watch crown 7 mm, 2 mm stem hole Fits the NH35 stem.
Watch glass 30.5 mm domed crystal Flat side faces the mould during injection.
Watch strap 22 mm Velcro strap L crow style. The mould has integrated strap slots.
Case back screws M2 x 6 mm (x2) For securing the back plate.

Additional tools for assembly

  • Dremel or drill press (for the crown hole and screw holes)
  • 2 mm drill bit (crown hole)
  • 1.2 mm drill bit (M2 screw holes in the back plate)
  • Soft, firm mat or padded cushion (protects the glass dome during drilling)
  • Side cutters or flush cut pliers (for snipping dial pins)
  • Stem cutters or fine side cutters (for trimming the crown stem to length)
  • Callipers (for measuring the stem gap)
  • Small screwdrivers
  • Movement holder (metal cradle that secures the NH35 during hand fitting)
  • Watch hand press (hand setting tool)
  • Second hand pusher (smaller diameter press for the second hand)
  • Tweezers
  • Lint free cloth (for cleaning the case interior and glass dome before assembly)
The build

Step by step build process

Nineteen steps from prepared mould to finished watch on the wrist. Steps 1 to 7 are the injection and post-injection handling. Steps 8 to 19 are the watch assembly, following standard watchmaking practice once the case has cooled.

  1. Mould halves cleaned and sprayed with release agent, ready to heat.
    Step 1

    Prepare the mould

    Clean the mould cavity thoroughly. Apply a light coat of mould release spray to both halves. This prevents the plastic from sticking and makes part removal much easier, especially with PP.

    Heat the mould to 60°C. Use an oven, heat gun, or the mould heater if your setup includes one. A warm mould helps the plastic flow evenly and fill the cavity without leaving short shots or cold spots.

  2. 30.5 mm domed watch glass seated flat in the front mould cavity.
    Step 2

    Place the glass dome

    Before closing the mould, place the 30.5 mm domed watch glass into the front cavity. The flat surface sits against the mould face, with the dome protruding into the cavity. The plastic will be injected around it, locking the glass permanently into the watch case.

    Take your time here. If the glass shifts during injection, the finished case will be unusable. Press it gently into position and confirm it is seated flat before moving to the next step.

  3. Step 3

    Close and bolt the mould

    Carefully close the mould halves, making sure the glass dome does not shift. Once aligned, bolt the mould together firmly. Even pressure across all bolts prevents flash (thin plastic leaking from the mould seam).

  4. Recycled PP being injected into the heated watch mould.
    Step 4

    Inject

    Set your Injection Mini V2 or Arbour Injection Machine V2 to 220°C. Load prepared recycled PP into the barrel.

    The mould has two injection points. Both shots are done before the mould is opened. Inject into the first injection point first, this fills the body cavity around the glass dome. Without opening the mould, move it slightly to align with the second injection point and inject again. This fills the back plate cavity, which has no insert.

  5. Watch body and back plate released from the mould halves.
    Step 5

    Open and remove the body

    Once both shots are complete, unbolt the mould and open it. Both parts come out together.

    If either part sticks, apply more mould release on the next cycle and confirm the mould was at 60°C before injecting. Do not force the parts out. Prying with sharp tools can scratch the mould cavity and damage future parts.

  6. Step 6

    Let both parts cool and shrink

    Leave both moulded parts to cool for at least 24 hours before any drilling or assembly work. Polypropylene shrinks as it cools. While the parts are still warm, they have not reached their final dimensions. If you drill holes or fit components before the shrinkage is complete, the tolerances will be off and the assembly will not fit properly.

    Set both parts aside on a flat surface at room temperature.

  7. Drilling the crown hole into the side of the moulded watch body.
    Step 7

    Drill all holes

    Once both parts have fully cooled and shrunk to their final size, drill all the holes in one go.

    Place the watch body face down on a soft, firm mat (a padded cushion or folded microfibre cloth works well). This protects the glass dome and the front surface from scratches while giving you stable control during drilling. A Dremel with the appropriate drill bits works well for this. A drill press is also suitable if you have one.

    Crown hole. Drill a hole in the side of the body for the crown stem using a 2 mm drill bit. Drill from the outside in, keeping the bit perpendicular to the case surface. Mark the drilling point with a centre punch first to prevent the bit from wandering on the curved surface.

    Screw holes. Drill the pilot holes in the back plate for the M2 x 6 mm case screws using a 1.2 mm drill bit.

    Go slowly with both. Recycled PP drills cleanly, but rushing can crack the case wall.

  8. Step 8

    Clean the case and prepare your workspace

    Before any assembly begins, clean the inside of the watch body thoroughly. Once the back plate is screwed on, anything trapped inside stays there permanently.

    Use a lint free cloth to wipe down the inside of the case. Pay particular attention to the inside surface of the glass dome. Fingerprints, dust, and drilling debris will all be visible through the crystal once the watch is assembled. Work in a clean, dust free area and avoid touching the inside of the glass with bare fingers from this point on.

  9. Step 9

    Assemble the movement

    From this point, assembly follows standard watchmaking practice. Place the NH35 into a movement holder. This is a metal cradle that grips the movement firmly so it does not shift while you press the hands on.

  10. Two of the four dial locating pins snipped flush before fitting.
    Step 10

    Prepare the dial

    The 28.5 mm dial has four small pins on the back. Two of these align with the locating holes on the NH35 movement and must stay intact. Snip the other two flush using side cutters or fine flush cut pliers. If you leave them, the dial will not sit flat against the movement.

  11. Dial sitting flat against the NH35 movement, both locating pins seated.
    Step 11

    Fit the dial

    Place the prepared dial onto the NH35 movement, aligning the two remaining pins with the corresponding holes. The dial should sit flat and level against the movement plate.

  12. Hour, minute, and second hands pressed onto the NH35 in a movement holder.
    Step 12

    Attach the hands

    Hour and minute hands. Press the hour hand onto the movement shaft first, then the minute hand. Use a watch hand press (also called a hand setting tool) for both. It applies even, downward pressure without scratching the dial or displacing hands you have already fitted.

    Second hand. The second hand fits onto a much thinner pinion at the centre of the shaft. Switch to a second hand pusher, which has a smaller diameter tip than the standard hand press. Using the full size press here will damage the other hands or the dial.

    Some hand press kits include interchangeable tips for both sizes.

  13. Stem release lever pressed on the NH35 movement to allow stem removal.
    Step 13

    Remove the stem

    Before placing the movement in the case, press the stem release lever on the side of the NH35 and pull the stem out. The movement goes into the case without it.

  14. NH35 movement and dial seated inside the moulded watch body.
    Step 14

    Seat the movement in the case

    Place the assembled movement and dial into the front case. The dial faces outward through the embedded glass dome.

  15. Crown and full-length stem inserted through the side of the case.
    Step 15

    Fit the crown and stem

    Screw the 7 mm crown onto the new stem. Feed the stem through the crown hole in the side of the case and push it into the movement until it clicks into the winding position. The crown will sit proud of the case at this stage because the stem is still full length.

  16. Callipers measuring the crown-to-case gap before trimming the stem.
    Step 16

    Measure and cut the stem

    Use callipers to measure the gap between the crown and the case wall. This tells you how much excess stem to remove. Pull the stem back out by pressing the release lever, then cut it to length with stem cutters or fine side cutters.

    Be precise. If the stem is too short, the crown will not engage the winding mechanism properly, and you will need a new one. If it is slightly too long, the crown will sit proud of the case but will still function.

  17. Testing the crown positions on the assembled watch.
    Step 17

    Reinsert and test

    Push the trimmed stem back into the movement through the case. The crown should now sit flush against the case wall.

    Test all three positions: pushed in (winding), pulled to first click (date setting), and pulled to second click (time setting). The crown should move smoothly between positions without resistance or looseness.

  18. Back plate fitted to the watch body with M2 case screws.
    Step 18

    Close the case

    Place the back plate onto the body and secure it with the M2 x 6 mm screws through the pre-drilled pilot holes. Tighten evenly in a cross pattern to avoid warping the case.

  19. Velcro strap threaded through the watch case slots, build complete.
    Step 19

    Attach the strap

    Thread the 22 mm Velcro strap through the integrated strap slots on each side of the case. The mould produces slots designed for this strap width.

    Your recycled plastic watch is complete.

When things go sideways

Tips and troubleshooting

Eight common issues with the watch build, with the fix that usually clears each one. Skim this before your first cycle so you know what to watch for.

Injection

Short shots or incomplete fill

The plastic is not reaching all areas of the cavity. Increase the mould temperature slightly (up to 70°C) or ensure the barrel is fully up to 220°C before injecting. Also check that you have loaded enough material.

Injection

Flash around the mould seam

Thin plastic leaking between the mould halves. Tighten the bolts more evenly, or check the mould faces for debris preventing a clean seal.

Injection

Glass dome shifting during injection

The injection pressure can move the glass if it is not seated firmly. Make sure the flat face is fully flush with the mould cavity before closing.

Injection

Part sticking in the mould

Apply more mould release spray. If the mould has cooled below 60°C, reheat it before the next cycle. PP generally releases well from aluminium moulds, so persistent sticking usually points to temperature or release issues.

Drilling

Drill holes not aligned

Measure twice. Always use a centre punch to mark drilling points before starting. This prevents the bit from wandering on the curved surface of the case.

Assembly

Stem cut too short

The crown will not engage properly and the stem will need replacing. Measure the gap carefully with callipers before cutting, and remove less than you think you need on the first pass. You can always trim more.

Assembly

Dust or fingerprints visible through the crystal

Once the case is closed, anything inside stays there. Before seating the movement, wipe the inside of the case and the underside of the glass dome with a lint free cloth. Work in a clean area and avoid touching the glass with bare fingers from that point on.

Assembly

Dial not sitting flat

Check that both remaining dial pins are fully seated in the NH35 locating holes, and that neither snipped pin has a burr left that is lifting the dial. Run the side cutters over the snipped faces again to make sure they are flush.

Custom designs

Looking for a different watch design?

The Sustainable Design Studio Watch Mould produces one specific case shape with an L crow strap configuration. If you have a different design in mind, whether that is a different case profile, a different strap attachment, or a completely custom watch shape, get in touch.

Start a custom mould enquiry

Built one? Stuck partway through?

Send us a photo of where you got to, what plastic you used, and what happened next. We have walked dozens of builds through the same steps and can usually point at the fix.